By Elaine Dezember Ritchel
My first full day in Zagreb, the capital city of Croatia, I found myself in the cozy kitchen of a friend of a new friend, gathered around a rickety table with a group of handsome young Croatian men. We slowly sipped wine and munched on salty cheese and pršut sent by concerned mothers from Dalmatia, and they curiously inquired about how it was I ended up in Croatia. I had been studying in England at the time, and I mostly came to Zagreb on a whim. Yet there I was, spending my afternoon with good food and even better company. I could hardly believe my luck.

An afternoon view of Zagreb from upper town
I’ve been back to Zagreb several times since that initial visit, and each time I relearn how to live the good life. Zagreb is a bustling city, full of things to do and sights to see, but for me, sight-seeing in Croatia’s capital is always slow, deliberate, and punctuated by leisurely coffee breaks. Zagreb is a city for exploring, wandering, and—most importantly—enjoying.
